Wasted Words

Well, dear readers and friends, it’s been a long time since I wrote on this blog. My last entry is the joyous occasion of receiving my 10 year Carte de Sejour, which allows me to stay in Morocco legally. I’ve had so many remarkable experiences in this country and in others since then, but why didn’t I write, you ask. Well, I have been writing. I’ve been writing letter after letter to my United States Congressmen.

This is not a political blog and I don’t intend for it to become one. This is a political post, and if you know me, you know my views, so make your decision now to continue reading or not.

I don’t know about you, but every day I am shocked and appalled about what is going on in the United States. From children in cages, people held in crowded and unsanitary facilities, being denied asylum requests at the border, rampant shootings from angry white racist men, and the buffoon in the White House who is an embarrassment to the human race and a large stain on the integrity of the country, I can’t believe what it’s come to.

I’m also amazed at how little it seems to bother my compatriots. Are you all immune, don’t see what’s happening, like it, don’t think you can do anything, are still more concerned about “those emails”, or what? This is a rhetorical question.

Every day, I go onto Face book Messenger and type in Resist. The site responds with a question of whom you want to contact. When you start out, you can put in a phone number or address so that it can identify the correct representatives for your State. The site is easy to use and self-explanatory once you enter it.

Here are some of the letters that I’ve written. The site adds the salutation and address as well as the closing, so this is just the body.

Please do something to eliminate guns in the hands of white racist terrorists and lunatics. Stop the killing and stand up against the racist rhetoric fueling these acts from the White House.

I’ve never been so ashamed of my country. First, it was separating families at the border and now it’s ICE raids leaving children abandoned at school. Please stop this ridiculous pursuit of immigrants in the country and focus on real issues like domestic terrorism.

As our elected officials, you have a responsibility to the nation and to your constituents. Do not go down in history allowing this president to continue to disgrace the country and its people day after day. He has alienated our allies, aligned with murderous dictators, fed the fire of racism and hate and belittled the status of the office with his pettiness. Please join your colleagues in starting the impeachment process. It’s long overdue. We’re waiting for some leadership in the government.

Is money really the only important thing to you people? Clearly, that’s true for the horror in the White House, but I’m still holding out hope for my elected officials that someone has a heart, a soul, and a conscience. What about the animals? Do they deserve no respect for their part in our ecosystem? Please do something to reverse the potential danger of the reckless abandonment of the endangered animal act. Everyone is watching.

Immediately after the recess, I would like to see broad steps taken around gun control. Please see that regulations include broad background checks, prohibiting assault weapons, and no sales to the mentally ill or those who have committed domestic violence.

Where are all the children? Are they being well cared for? Are they back with their parents? Are the parents being treated with dignity and respect? Do they have soap, water, toothbrushes, and food? I haven’t heard that these human rights violations have been corrected and I wait in shame for someone to do something about this. Will you help or will you be a part of the problem?

What do you think about the bully in the White House using politics against USA citizens and your colleagues? Does it not cause any alarm? Please join others to get this man impeached before irreparable harm has been done to our democracy. The whole world is watching in horror and you all are doing nothing. Stop the madness now!

What’s being done to see that our future elections are fair, all citizens can vote, and other countries are not tempering with them? It’s clear from our own internal agencies that outside meddling has occurred and is being planned. What are you doing to see that it doesn’t happen again?

These are only a few. There is never a loss for something to write about unfortunately, the hardest decision is which one to tackle today. Since all of the Tennessee congressional representatives are republican, I feel like I’m swimming upstream, but I won’t stand by and just watch. I send something every single day. What are you doing?

So excuse me if I’m absent here. Maybe my words are wasted but it sure makes me feel just a little bit better to know I’m voicing my opinion and trying to do something.

I’m feeling better about getting some of this off my chest both to the actual people who could directly do something about it and to you my faithful readers. I hope I sparked something in you to join me in this letter-writing campaign. I hope to see you back here with something more positive and apolitical before too long.

Renewing the Carte de Sejour

The residency card (Carte de Sejour) that I finally obtained last year after arriving expires on March 5th. As a responsible person, I begin gathering my documents and showed up at the immigration office 90 days before the expiration only to be told that I had plenty of time. “Come back two weeks before it expires.”

In the meantime, some of the documents that I had obtained in preparing to apply 90 days in advance expired. They are only valid, according to the immigration office, for three months. So, I had to obtain an update on a couple of them.

None of the documents are difficult to obtain. I gathered my rental contract, our marriage license, three months bank statements, a report from a doctor saying I am in good health, copies of my passport, and a background check from Morocco, which I was able to do online and then pick up, along with two application forms.

Since we are traveling at the end of February, I decided to return thirty days before it expired. My husband got up very early to put my name on the list at 7:30 so that I could get one of the first numbers when they handed them out at 8:30. However, they have changed that process. You must arrive at 8:30 and take a number as you arrive. I met him there and was given number 4.

Some men called each number and at a desk in the waiting area went over why you were there and what documents you had brought with you. They determined that I needed to fill out one other form concerning my past work and hobbies and that my husband needed to sign a statement of support. All of these documents had to be “legalized” which is some form of notary service. We had already done all of the documents that we brought with us and he was able to go next door and legalize his handwritten statement.

We were then asked to wait for one of the officers. When I was called, I entered the room with my husband. My husband asked the officer if I could get the document for ten years and he told him, “We will see.” He then began looking over my documents. This was a long, slow, painful process and he seemed to just move the papers around the desk while leaving the room several different times.

My husband who had returned to the waiting area said he came outside and asked him a few questions about our change of address. Finally, the office said to me, “Give me a thousand dirham”. Apparently, I looked shocked and I was. He said, “You wanted ten years, right?” I was speechless. We went to the ATM to get the money and returned quickly and obtained a receipt and instructions to return in two weeks for the card.

I don’t even know how to describe how exciting this is! If only you could understand the ten years of document chase that, I have done in Italy and now here. Italy was by far the most difficult with the permission to stay and residency being two separate transactions. Both require some of the same documents plus others and are at different offices.

We also got married in Italy, which was a year-long document gathering process for us both. Here in Morocco, it has been more streamlined and efficient (if you can ever say that about anything related to any government transaction) but in all fairness, since I am married to a citizen, half the battle is already won. Therein lays one of our biggest reasons for moving to Morocco. Two foreigners in a different country can be a challenge.

When I hear stories of American immigrants, I can really empathize. I think the process there must be even worse than what I have experienced. Dealing with documents only in English, many only available on the computer and traveling long distances to the immigration offices are only some of the obstacles that I see. These days, I am certain it is even more difficult than ever.

In ten years, I will have to return to Casablanca to renew my passport and will have to renew my Carte de Sejour. That seems like a good long time and I’m going to enjoy every minute of it.

The Saadian Tombs

The Saadian Tombs are another of the most visited sites in Marrakech. The sepulchers date back to 1578-1603 and the Saadien dynasty of Ahmad-al-Mansur. The tombs are located on the south side of the Kasbah Mosque.

The mausoleum holds about sixty members of the Saadi dynasty. It is comprised of four large rooms. Outside is a small garden and the graves of soldiers and servants.

The tombs have beautiful decorations made of carved cedar, stucco and Carrara marble. This family ruled over Marrakech from 1524-1659. They were one of the most important families of that time. Later on, Moulay Ismail wanted to destroy all signs of the family but did not destroy the tombs. Instead, he ordered the door to the tombs sealed. They were rediscovered in 1917.

The tombs are opened from 9-5 every day and it costs 70 dirhams to enter. (10 dirhams if you are Moroccan or a resident of Morocco).
It was very crowded when we went in the morning. There was a long line to view the room of twelve columns were Ahmad-al-Mansur is buried. It was worth it though. The room is stunning. People were patient and allowed you to take your time and some photos when it was your turn to view the tombs.

There are many tours available for this site, but we did it alone. Although the site is not very large, it took us a little over an hour to see everything. Some of that time was waiting in line for the large tomb. It is definitely a site worth visiting when you are in Marrakech. You won’t see many examples of Moroccan artisanal work better than this. It is truly stunning.

Octopus with Potatoes Recipe

I love to eat octopus! The first time I ever ate it was with an Italian friend, Bruno, who took me to a Greek Restaurant near Ft. Lauderdale, where we ate it grilled and I was in love! (With him and the octopus) Usually, I eat it almost every time I see it on a menu and prepared in many different ways. I love them all.

We buy octopus fresh at the market, but I always freeze it right away and then thaw before cooking it. As a result, freezing changes the texture in a good way and makes it less tough and easier to cook. So, the following is one of my favorite recipes and it is good hot or cold.


One octopus (about 2 lbs)
Extra virgin olive oil
3-4 potatoes

Clean and empty the sack. Take out the eyes and the “beak” which holds some tiny bones. Boil some salted water. Hold it by the head and emerge the tentacles in the water using a dipping motion. Do this four or five times so that the tentacles curl up nicely. It needs to be almost completely submerged. Cook it for at least 45 minutes or up to an hour.

Take it out of the water and drain. Cut into small pieces.

In a bowl blend the oil with the chopped parsley and garlic. Add the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Pour the blend over the octopus and let sit for at least 2 hours before serving. You can serve at room temperature or cold.

However, if you want a hardier meal, you can throw a few whole potatoes into the boiling water with the octopus. When they are cooked, cut into chunks and serve with the pieces of octopus. Pour the sauce over all.
Octopus and Potatoes

Majorelle Gardens and YSL Museum

The Majorelle Gardens and Yves St. Laurent Museum are worthy of planning a visit to Morocco just to see them! Even though I’ve written a lot lately about my language learning, which has occupied most of my mind, it’s time to let you in on some other things I’ve seen lately.

After Christmas, we took a trip to Marrakech. I had visited Marrakech before. It was the first time I came to Morocco in 2012 and I was with my son. Even though I love Marrakech, I find it very aggressive and not a place I want to live, but love to visit. Given that, I was anxious to visit with my husband who has been there many, many times.  His experience and knowledge would make it a different experience, and it was. Over the next few days, I will tell you all about our visit and some of the major sites.

First, let’s start with the Majorelle Gardens and the Yves St. Laurent museum, which is my absolute favorite. This was my second visit there. It is a two and a half acre botanical garden started in 1923 by the artist Jacques Majorelle. It took him forty years to build the garden. They recently opened an entirely new section which made the garden almost double the size of my prior visit.

In 1980, the designer Yves St. Laurent and his partner Pierre Berge purchased the property and villa located on it and began restoration. The villa houses the Islamic Art Museum and the Berber Museum and on the property but at a separate entrance is the Yves St Laurent museum dedicated to his designs.

Tomb of Yves St Laurent and his partne
Tomb of Yves St Laurent and his partner

The gardens are open every day of the year. It is one of the most visited sites in Morocco. It takes several hours to go through the gardens and the museum. There are cafes inside the museum properties, but also some nice restaurants and cafes located just outside.

We had lunch between visiting the gardens and the Yves St. Laurent museum, which has a separate entrance, and it was the perfect break.

If you go to Marrakech, do not miss this garden! No photos are allowed in the museum.

Darija Language Update

When Darija is by far the hardest language I’ve learned. Spanish, Italian, and French are all considered romance languages. They are the modern version of languages that were originally composed of “vulgar Latin”. That means they have some commonalities.

English is a Germanic Language with some Latin influences, so there are some words that are similar to words in the romance languages.  Fortunately, knowing these languages all support each other and there are common themes, some similar vocabulary and common grammar structure.

However, that is not so in Darija. First of all, it is not considered a language, but a dialect of the Arabic language. Therefore, it is not written. Classical Arabic and French make up written documents, informational signs, product information, etc in Morocco. However, the spoken language is Darija.  Additionally, Darija varies somewhat in the various regions and cities in Morocco. In Tangier, Darija is a combination of local words, Spanish and French words and even some classical Arabic words.

Darija is the first language of about 70% of the Moroccan population and the rest speak a Berber language called Tamazight. Needless to say, language is one of the greatest complexities of living in Morocco. On a regular day, I speak French, Spanish, Darija, Italian, and sometimes a little English. Sometimes I speak words of each in the same sentence! It is so interesting to see how people communicate and to confirm that 90% of communication is non-verbal.

All that being said, I am making a little progress on my Darija. Through learning the language, I find that I am better able to distinguish words and phrases that I hear on the street. In order to learn, my teacher has developed a written format of Darija, which younger folks often use for texting. This has been the most helpful element for me since I am a visual learner. When I write things down, or see them written, I am better able to remember them than if I am just repeating things.

So, here are some things I’ve learned so far.

Ana smyti Karen
Ana man amerikiya.
Ana oustada.
Ana mzawja man maghribi.
Kanaskoun f Tanja
Namchi dars Darija jouj youm l simana , tnin ou joum3a hadi tleta sa3a.
Bghit bazaf.

My name is Karen
I am American.
I am a teacher
I am married to a Moroccan man.
I live in Tangier.
I go to my Darija course two days a week on Tuesday and Friday for three hours.
I like it a lot!

I’m only 9 hours into my 20-hour course and some days I feel encouraged and some days discouraged. Both are a natural part of learning a new language.

Happy New Year!

Happy New Year! Well, another year’s over and a new one’s just begun. Whoops, I borrowed that line from a song. Anyway, it’s true and I’ve been too busy to write! Well, that and my website crashed. So, I’m back on track now and there is so much to tell.

Christmas Day was spent at the lighthouse nearby called Cap Spartel. It was a lovely sunny day and we rode out and had a very nice lunch with a spectacular view of the sea. The day after we departed for Marrakech, my second visit there, but the first with my husband, which made it very different. (more on that later)

Time does have a way of flying by, doesn’t it? I had not realized how full my retirement years would be. When I retired so early (age 52), I wondered how I would fill my time. I was sure there was a lot to the world outside of work but wasn’t sure what all it entailed. Wow, what a truly marvelous wonderful world we live in full of opportunities and possibilities!

New Year’s Eve was quiet having just returned from Marrakech and New Year’s Day busy with a seaside brunch and a movie.

In this new year, my Darija course is going well, and my teaching job is not. After our trip to Marrakech, we hurried to plan our next travel destination, which will be Egypt in late February. This winter, so far in Tangier has been very sunny and very mild. The daytime temperatures are perfectly lovely and the nighttime is nippy.

Our new apartment is bringing us so much joy. It’s sunny and spacious and because we just moved in, uncluttered and new. We’ve enjoyed decorating together more than I ever would have anticipated. It is quiet and peaceful and the other residents who live here respectful and practically invisible.

Happy New Year! I hope you find all the peace, love, and joy that your heart desires.

Stay tuned for all the sites I visited in Marrakech and more!

Christmas Time in a Muslim Country

Christmas time in a Muslim country is quite different, as you might expect. Of course, it’s not that there are no signs of it, there are. In the malls, there are reindeer and decorated trees. People (usually Muslims) gather around them to take photos.

Many stores have holiday sale signs in their windows; live trees are sold around town, as well as decorations for homes and trees in a variety of international stores. There are a few Christmas concerts at the churches and two or three holiday markets.

Some Muslims do have Christmas trees in their homes. A couple of my Muslim friends do and by the delighted reaction of my husband every year when we put it up, I don’t doubt it.

We have a tree in our house and visited a Christmas market that was held at the American Legation. We’ve had some get-togethers with friends (not necessarily related to the holiday). Other than that, there is not much evidence of Christmas.

I don’t mind it. Really, I don’t need all of the commercialism to remind me of the season of goodwill. I also don’t mind not having all the pressures of gift buying and giving, lots of parties and concerts, and family obligations. Of course, I send a few gifts and words of good cheer to family and close friends, but other than that, I am free of the stress of Christmas.

Usually, we have some visitors for the holidays, but unfortunately, that isn’t happening this year. I will miss old friends and family, but relish my new experiences and all the enrichment that they bring. I never travel to the United States at Christmas. Traveling is too expensive, the weather can be bad, and it adds to stress.

On Christmas Day, things will be as usual here in Morocco. We will probably celebrate quietly at home, as we ready to depart to Marrakech the next day, our present to each other. I wish everyone a stress-free holiday season celebrated in the way that you most desire.

Trying to Learn Moroccan Arabic (Darija)

When I was young, I had a dream to learn a foreign language. It seemed so romantic. I struggled through Spanish for four years in high school and only used it a handful of times when I visited Mexico on vacation. Una cerveza mas por favor!

I was forty before I traveled abroad. What I found in Europe was that most people could speak a handful of languages. The desire to learn another language intensified and I felt stupid around these bi, tri, and multilingual Europeans.

In 2007, I moved to Italy to accomplish two bucket list items, learn another language and live in another country. Who knew that eleven years later I would be on my fourth foreign language? Italian is the second and strongest foreign language I’ve learned. Spanish is weak, but I often have opportunities to speak it in Tangier and often words pop up that I didn’t know I remembered. Speaking Italian to a native Spanish speaker usually works. I’ve learned French and find that while most Moroccans in the country speak it, many in Tangier do not.

I am happy to have learned French and all of the signs in Morocco are in French and Classic Arabic. Rental contracts, bank documents, grocery store products, and all printed materials include French so it has been valuable. However, if I really want to fit in with the Moroccan people, and speak to my husband’s family, I must learn Darija. Darija is a dialect of Arabic and not considered a true language. It is not a written language, only spoken.

It’s not easy to find courses, but finally, I found a private teacher at an organization called WorldUnite. I will see her for an hour two times per week for a while to see how it goes. My husband assures me it’s “easy”. None of the grammar and tenses like in Italian. Nevertheless, I’ve already found that my mouth, tongue, and throat don’t make some of the needed sounds. It’s going to take a lot of practice. Wish me luck.

The Cinema

Going to the cinema has always been one of my favorite pastimes. I remember when I was very young and RC Cola offered a deal for six bottle caps to get into the Saturday morning matinee at the Donelson Theater. My brother and I saved up, contacted our friends and set out for a morning at the movies.

When my sons were small, Sunday afternoons alone or with a friend in the dark quiet of the movie theater was just what I needed for relaxation. Even though I am an avid reader, there is something about being entertained with little to no effort that can be very appealing.

Hot summers in Boston with no air-conditioning pushed me to the cool, dark cave of the cinema to enjoy the air-conditioning and the latest in filmmaking. Whether it’s hot weather or cold, sitting in the theaters dark, usually with not many other people around, staring at the screen can really take you away.

Why don’t people go to movies anymore? I guess with the wide assortment of movies available on TV, internet, Netflix, Hulu, DVDs, etc., combined with movie screen like TV’s in peoples home makes it feel like an unnecessary effort and expense. Yet for me, it’s an entirely different experience. In the theater, dark and void of distractions, I can really let myself step into the big screen and become a part of the film. It takes over all of my senses and emotions.

Watching Casablanca at the Cinema Rif
Watching Casablanca at the Cinema Rif

In Tangier, we have the Cinemateque RIF. It’s a historic art deco theater which hosts film festivals and has an archive of films all its own. We sometimes see the latest Hollywood films, as in First Man, recently, but generally, there are foreign films of French, Spanish, and Arabic origin. The cinema also hosts a monthly series of English films on Sunday evenings, most recently Francis Ford Coppola films.
Cinema Rif
Cinema Rif

Over the years, I have enjoyed my share of Hollywood films, but have become bored with the predictability of most. I steer towards indie films and foreign ones now, which may lack the special effects of Hollywood, but have deeper, more interesting, emotionally charged topics.

The last time I went to a matinee in the United States, it cost almost $25 for the ticket, small popcorn, and a drink. That is probably another reason people don’t go anymore. The cinema here costs 50 dirhams or $5. The café inside doesn’t sell popcorn, but you can get a glass of wine, beer, or tea. If you really want popcorn you can buy it from one of the street vendors outside for 20 cents a bag, sorry no butter.

As winter approaches in Tangier, I’m looking forward to my movie nights at the theater.

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