Morocco Archives - The Direction of Your Dreams

Documents February 12, 2019

Renewing the Carte de Sejour

The residency card (Carte de Sejour) that I finally obtained last year after arriving expires on March 5th. As a responsible person, I begin gathering my documents and showed up at the immigration office 90 days before the expiration only to be told that I had plenty of time. “Come back two weeks before it expires.”

In the meantime, some of the documents that I had obtained in preparing to apply 90 days in advance expired. They are only valid, according to the immigration office, for three months. So, I had to obtain an update on a couple of them.

None of the documents are difficult to obtain. I gathered my rental contract, our marriage license, three months bank statements, a report from a doctor saying I am in good health, copies of my passport, and a background check from Morocco, which I was able to do online and then pick up, along with two application forms.

Since we are traveling at the end of February, I decided to return thirty days before it expired. My husband got up very early to put my name on the list at 7:30 so that I could get one of the first numbers when they handed them out at 8:30. However, they have changed that process. You must arrive at 8:30 and take a number as you arrive. I met him there and was given number 4.

Some men called each number and at a desk in the waiting area went over why you were there and what documents you had brought with you. They determined that I needed to fill out one other form concerning my past work and hobbies and that my husband needed to sign a statement of support. All of these documents had to be “legalized” which is some form of notary service. We had already done all of the documents that we brought with us and he was able to go next door and legalize his handwritten statement.

We were then asked to wait for one of the officers. When I was called, I entered the room with my husband. My husband asked the officer if I could get the document for ten years and he told him, “We will see.” He then began looking over my documents. This was a long, slow, painful process and he seemed to just move the papers around the desk while leaving the room several different times.

My husband who had returned to the waiting area said he came outside and asked him a few questions about our change of address. Finally, the office said to me, “Give me a thousand dirham”. Apparently, I looked shocked and I was. He said, “You wanted ten years, right?” I was speechless. We went to the ATM to get the money and returned quickly and obtained a receipt and instructions to return in two weeks for the card.

I don’t even know how to describe how exciting this is! If only you could understand the ten years of document chase that, I have done in Italy and now here. Italy was by far the most difficult with the permission to stay and residency being two separate transactions. Both require some of the same documents plus others and are at different offices.

We also got married in Italy, which was a year-long document gathering process for us both. Here in Morocco, it has been more streamlined and efficient (if you can ever say that about anything related to any government transaction) but in all fairness, since I am married to a citizen, half the battle is already won. Therein lays one of our biggest reasons for moving to Morocco. Two foreigners in a different country can be a challenge.

When I hear stories of American immigrants, I can really empathize. I think the process there must be even worse than what I have experienced. Dealing with documents only in English, many only available on the computer and traveling long distances to the immigration offices are only some of the obstacles that I see. These days, I am certain it is even more difficult than ever.

In ten years, I will have to return to Casablanca to renew my passport and will have to renew my Carte de Sejour. That seems like a good long time and I’m going to enjoy every minute of it.

Culture January 27, 2019

The Saadian Tombs

The Saadian Tombs are another of the most visited sites in Marrakech. The sepulchers date back to 1578-1603 and the Saadien dynasty of Ahmad-al-Mansur. The tombs are located on the south side of the Kasbah Mosque.

The mausoleum holds about sixty members of the Saadi dynasty. It is comprised of four large rooms. Outside is a small garden and the graves of soldiers and servants.

The tombs have beautiful decorations made of carved cedar, stucco and Carrara marble. This family ruled over Marrakech from 1524-1659. They were one of the most important families of that time. Later on, Moulay Ismail wanted to destroy all signs of the family but did not destroy the tombs. Instead, he ordered the door to the tombs sealed. They were rediscovered in 1917.

The tombs are opened from 9-5 every day and it costs 70 dirhams to enter. (10 dirhams if you are Moroccan or a resident of Morocco).
It was very crowded when we went in the morning. There was a long line to view the room of twelve columns were Ahmad-al-Mansur is buried. It was worth it though. The room is stunning. People were patient and allowed you to take your time and some photos when it was your turn to view the tombs.

There are many tours available for this site, but we did it alone. Although the site is not very large, it took us a little over an hour to see everything. Some of that time was waiting in line for the large tomb. It is definitely a site worth visiting when you are in Marrakech. You won’t see many examples of Moroccan artisanal work better than this. It is truly stunning.

Artists and Art January 19, 2019

Majorelle Gardens and YSL Museum

The Majorelle Gardens and Yves St. Laurent Museum are worthy of planning a visit to Morocco just to see them! Even though I’ve written a lot lately about my language learning, which has occupied most of my mind, it’s time to let you in on some other things I’ve seen lately.

After Christmas, we took a trip to Marrakech. I had visited Marrakech before. It was the first time I came to Morocco in 2012 and I was with my son. Even though I love Marrakech, I find it very aggressive and not a place I want to live, but love to visit. Given that, I was anxious to visit with my husband who has been there many, many times. His experience and knowledge would make it a different experience, and it was. Over the next few days, I will tell you all about our visit and some of the major sites.

First, let’s start with the Majorelle Gardens and the Yves St. Laurent museum, which is my absolute favorite. This was my second visit there. It is a two and a half acre botanical garden started in 1923 by the artist Jacques Majorelle. It took him forty years to build the garden. They recently opened an entirely new section which made the garden almost double the size of my prior visit.

In 1980, the designer Yves St. Laurent and his partner Pierre Berge purchased the property and villa located on it and began restoration. The villa houses the Islamic Art Museum and the Berber Museum and on the property but at a separate entrance is the Yves St Laurent museum dedicated to his designs.

The gardens are open every day of the year. It is one of the most visited sites in Morocco. It takes several hours to go through the gardens and the museum. There are cafes inside the museum properties, but also some nice restaurants and cafes located just outside.

We had lunch between visiting the gardens and the Yves St. Laurent museum, which has a separate entrance, and it was the perfect break.

If you go to Marrakech, do not miss this garden! No photos are allowed in the museum.

Culture January 12, 2019

Darija Language Update

When Darija is by far the hardest language I’ve learned. Spanish, Italian, and French are all considered romance languages. They are the modern version of languages that were originally composed of “vulgar Latin”. That means they have some commonalities.

English is a Germanic Language with some Latin influences, so there are some words that are similar to words in the romance languages. Fortunately, knowing these languages all support each other and there are common themes, some similar vocabulary and common grammar structure.

However, that is not so in Darija. First of all, it is not considered a language, but a dialect of the Arabic language. Therefore, it is not written. Classical Arabic and French make up written documents, informational signs, product information, etc in Morocco. However, the spoken language is Darija. Additionally, Darija varies somewhat in the various regions and cities in Morocco. In Tangier, Darija is a combination of local words, Spanish and French words and even some classical Arabic words.

Darija is the first language of about 70% of the Moroccan population and the rest speak a Berber language called Tamazight. Needless to say, language is one of the greatest complexities of living in Morocco. On a regular day, I speak French, Spanish, Darija, Italian, and sometimes a little English. Sometimes I speak words of each in the same sentence! It is so interesting to see how people communicate and to confirm that 90% of communication is non-verbal.

All that being said, I am making a little progress on my Darija. Through learning the language, I find that I am better able to distinguish words and phrases that I hear on the street. In order to learn, my teacher has developed a written format of Darija, which younger folks often use for texting. This has been the most helpful element for me since I am a visual learner. When I write things down, or see them written, I am better able to remember them than if I am just repeating things.

So, here are some things I’ve learned so far.

Ana smyti Karen
Ana man amerikiya.
Ana oustada.
Ana mzawja man maghribi.
Kanaskoun f Tanja
Namchi dars Darija jouj youm l simana , tnin ou joum3a hadi tleta sa3a.
Bghit bazaf.

Translation:
My name is Karen
I am American.
I am a teacher
I am married to a Moroccan man.
I live in Tangier.
I go to my Darija course two days a week on Tuesday and Friday for three hours.
I like it a lot!

I’m only 9 hours into my 20-hour course and some days I feel encouraged and some days discouraged. Both are a natural part of learning a new language.

Artists and Art November 30, 2018

The Cinema

Going to the cinema has always been one of my favorite pastimes. I remember when I was very young and RC Cola offered a deal for six bottle caps to get into the Saturday morning matinee at the Donelson Theater. My brother and I saved up, contacted our friends and set out for a morning at the movies.

When my sons were small, Sunday afternoons alone or with a friend in the dark quiet of the movie theater was just what I needed for relaxation. Even though I am an avid reader, there is something about being entertained with little to no effort that can be very appealing.

Hot summers in Boston with no air-conditioning pushed me to the cool, dark cave of the cinema to enjoy the air-conditioning and the latest in filmmaking. Whether it’s hot weather or cold, sitting in the theaters dark, usually with not many other people around, staring at the screen can really take you away.

Why don’t people go to movies anymore? I guess with the wide assortment of movies available on TV, internet, Netflix, Hulu, DVDs, etc., combined with movie screen like TV’s in peoples home makes it feel like an unnecessary effort and expense. Yet for me, it’s an entirely different experience. In the theater, dark and void of distractions, I can really let myself step into the big screen and become a part of the film. It takes over all of my senses and emotions.

In Tangier, we have the Cinemateque RIF. It’s a historic art deco theater which hosts film festivals and has an archive of films all its own. We sometimes see the latest Hollywood films, as in First Man, recently, but generally, there are foreign films of French, Spanish, and Arabic origin. The cinema also hosts a monthly series of English films on Sunday evenings, most recently Francis Ford Coppola films.

Over the years, I have enjoyed my share of Hollywood films, but have become bored with the predictability of most. I steer towards indie films and foreign ones now, which may lack the special effects of Hollywood, but have deeper, more interesting, emotionally charged topics.

The last time I went to a matinee in the United States, it cost almost $25 for the ticket, small popcorn, and a drink. That is probably another reason people don’t go anymore. The cinema here costs 50 dirhams or $5. The café inside doesn’t sell popcorn, but you can get a glass of wine, beer, or tea. If you really want popcorn you can buy it from one of the street vendors outside for 20 cents a bag, sorry no butter.

As winter approaches in Tangier, I’m looking forward to my movie nights at the theater.

Casablanca November 13, 2018

The Mosque of Hassan II

The Grande Mosque of Hassan II is a must see when visiting Casablanca. We are returning to pick up my passport, but, we won’t be sightseeing this time. However, it occurred to me that I hadn’t told you about this incredible site.

For instance, this mosque is the only one that non-Muslims can enter in Morocco. Additionally, it is also the largest in Morocco, the second largest in Africa and the fifth largest in the world. The minaret is the tallest in the world. It is 689 feet or 60 stores and on top is a laser pointed toward Mecca.

The mosque was designed by Michel Pinseau and completed in 1993. The mosque stands on a promontory looking out over the Atlantic Ocean. It will hold 105,000 worshippers. The ceiling is retractable and the walls are built of handcrafted marble. It truly is a remarkable sight and like most religious structures is awe-inspiring.

Most importantly, Morocco’s artisan woodworkers, zellij artists, carved stucco moldings, and marble workers all outdid themselves in the work in this mosque. For example, there is cedar from the Atlas Mountains, marble from Agadir, and granite from Tafraoute. Murano glass chandeliers hang from the domes in the central hall.

The cost of the mosque was 585 million euro, which was a highly controversial sum of money for this low-mid income country. The funds were acquired from public donations, business entities, other Arab countries and construction loans provided by western countries. Twelve million people contributed to the cost, ranging from contributions as low as 5 dirhams.

The cost of entrance is 120 dirhams. Additionally, it includes a guided tour in a variety of languages. On the other hand, entrance to the museum is 30 dirhams. It is well worth a visit. The museum has more information about the artisan work in the mosque. There is a school of artisans located on the premises. You can check the website here for more information about opening times.

Culture October 5, 2018

A Year in Tangier

It’s been a year now since we embarked on our Moroccan adventure. We got on the ferry in Genoa and landed at Tangier med 49 hours later. It was exciting, exhilarating, scary, and stressful as big changes can be.

After a year here, I am reliving those memories of our arrival and examining how I’ve adapted (or not) to the customs and culture. The call to prayer echoes through my apartment and the city five times a day marking the passing of the day. Sometimes I am soothed by it. Sometimes it is such a normal part of the background sounds that I hardly notice.

Shop owners smile and welcome me now. Usually they know what I’ve come for and are ready to help should I decide in my schoolgirl French to ask for something different.

Still, the language continues to be my biggest challenge. I’ve studied French for a year and a half and feel confident in my reading skills. These are important since menus, instructions, products, signs, and most printed materials are in French. Speaking is another matter. My pronunciation is poor, not as many people speak French in Tangier as I had thought. Sometimes I speak a little Spanish or resort to Italian for Spanish speakers because they usually understand it. This year my goal is to learn more Darija which is the Moroccan Arabic dialect spoken throughout Morocco. I know about 70 words now but can’t string a full sentence together.

The weather is a highlight of living here. Hot summer days with cool nights, sunny winters with moderate temperatures, a short rainy season, and the time in-between with perfect 75-degree temperatures and lovely breezes.

Seeing the sea every day is now a necessity. It is easy to do, as there are glimpses almost everywhere you go and every street you are on in the Medina and in Centreville. Still, none of the views is as stunning as the one from my apartment window.

Daily life is slow and lovely here. The days start late and the shops think about opening around 10:30 or 11:00. Lunches are normally at 2-3 and dinners at 9-10.

Additionally, fresh vegetables, fruits, and lovely fresh fish appear at the market every day and on Thursday and Sunday, individual farmers make their way into the city to sell their wares. The quality, size, colors, and tastes are incredible.

I’ve learned about the necessity of the hammam experience and it is a part of my routine now. The bathing and cleansing ritual serves as a physical and emotional detoxification and releases stress, anxiety, and allows deep relaxation.

There are things that I don’t like. Some areas of the city need improvements in sanitation pickup and trash removal. Sidewalks and roads can be in a state of disrepair. Also, poor people with disabilities, injuries, or mental health issues ask for money on the street. Stray cats that are unhealthy or injured are left to fend for themselves. All of these usually found in large cities throughout the world.

Overall, the year has been full of wonder, adventure, education, and pleasure. I love living in Tangier.

Above all, we’ve had many friends and family to visit. We’ve made new friends here and settled into a social network that includes meals out with friends, dinner parties, movies, day trips, beach and pool days, volunteer work, and I’ve taken on a new part-time job teaching English.

Most importantly, I can’t wait to see what the coming years in Morocco will bring.

Casablanca October 2, 2018

Casablanca Restaurants

We were only in Casablanca for forty-eight hours, but during that time, I learned that the city is chaotic and too large for me, but that they have some excellent restaurants. In the short time, we were there, we visited the famous Rick’s Café, a Spanish Restaurant called Casa Jose Gauthier and La Taverna du Dauphin.

We had incredible meals in each of them for not a lot of money. In Tangier, many restaurants have the same “family outing” menu which offers pizza, pasta, some Moroccan dishes, and sandwiches.

There are a handful of restaurants that offer seafood, international cuisine, or Moroccan and sell alcohol. These can be much more expensive and fewer to chose from. That doesn’t seem to be the case in the Casablanca metropolis.

Rick’s Café who got its fame from the 1942 film, Casablanca, opened in Casablanca since 2004. It is designed to recreate Rick’s Café bar made famous by Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman in the film. The restaurant is in a large villa with the piano bar located on the first floor.

The menu is upscale and varied, and I had a goat cheese and fig salad and Ben had a shrimp and avocado salad lamb shank tagine.

Casa Jose Gauthier serves a large variety of Spanish food. We ordered from their tapas menu. We had a large variety of foods including manchego cheese, marinated anchovies, fish eggs, salad and octopus with a bottle of wine.

The crowning glory of these three restaurants, in my opinion, was at La Taverna du Dauphin. We started our meal with Daklha oysters, which are like biting into the sea. I had never had them before coming to Morocco and they set a new standard on oysters. They were served on the half shell with lemon.

We also split a delicious salad of chicory and blue cheese with a delicious vinaigrette. For my entrée, I had pan-seared scallops with a creamy risotto and my husband chose a mixed grilled platter.

Seared Scallops Rick's Cafe Casablanca — Seared Scallops Rick’s Cafe Casablanca

All of these meals were in the $20-$30 range per person including alcohol.

I have to return to Casablanca soon to pick up my passport. I will definitely make time to enjoy another wonderful meal!

Casablanca September 24, 2018

Visiting the American Consulate

I paid a visit to the American Consulate in Casablanca, Morocco for renewing my passport. After living in Italy for eight years, getting married there to another foreigner, and then moving to Morocco, I’ve dealt with enough government offices bureaucracy for a lifetime.

Italy has a reputation for being one of the most bureaucratic countries in the world. Of the three countries, that I have experience with that is true. However, Italy, at least when I was there, does have some strains of humanity woven among the angst of getting documents. I chock that up to the warm, friendly Italian personality.

That’s not to say you won’t meet a few assholes along the way. I personally believe that this is how these types of jobs are filled. The bigger asshole you are, the more chance you have of being hired to do one of these jobs. Granted they aren’t easy. The wear and tear of dealing with so many different situations, people, cultures, and languages can understandably get on your nerves.

I’ve visited the American Consulate in Italy as well as in Morocco now to obtain documents. My observations are this: If you work in one of these locations, you are safe. There is more than ample security to get in and the tanks outside the Italian consulate should scare anyone away. (Including some Americans in need of assistance) I understand the need for this security, but it absolutely makes you feel like an “enemy of the state”.

Frankly, I hope I never need their help for some emergency. They don’t always seem willing to help. They have rules and laws that prohibit them from doing most things it seems. Two meetings I’ve been to in Morocco and Italy with the consulate consisted of them explaining more about what they could not do for citizens than what they can do. It seems they can notarize documents, issue visas, renew passports, and record births. All for a fee of course.

You cannot show up at the consulate to ask for assistance or questions. Everything is by appointment, online, and you must have exact documents showing the appointment, your passport, etc when you enter. I watched furiously while they patted down and scanned a man who looked to be well into his nineties, tried to walk with a cane, but needed assistance to accomplish that. He was frail, scared, and trying to renew his already expired passport. A HUGE problem.

My stomach ties in knots when I know I have to make a visit. Most of this is from dealing with documents in Italy where I referred to my visits as “going to gather information” to alleviate the inevitable failure if I thought I was actually going to accomplish something. There, the documents you need were not always clear and you often left with a list of more things to obtain. This could work for you as well as against you.

The U.S. Consulate is more exacting. In fact, they have the exact list of things that you need without any deviations. I showed up with that (my old passport, the appointment confirmation, and the form they asked to be filled out along with two photos of a particular size and pose) and after paying my fee was told that all was in order. The lead up to this simple transaction was daunting.

I approached the first woman at a desk outside the consulate. There are barriers and soldiers around the perimeter leading you to one opening. I told her I had an appointment and showed her my passport and confirmation and she passed me through to the second guard about 30 feet away. He looked at my appointment which was at 9:45 and told me to wait (it was 9:35)

He asked me if I had any cameras, lighters, cigarettes, aerosol, makeup, explosives, guns, or computers in my bag. I did have a camera and makeup and had to leave them with my husband. At 9:45, he looked at my passport and appointment again, checked me off a list that he held in his hand, used a hand-held wand to scan my body, and passed me off to the guard another 50 feet down the sidewalk. This guard was in front of the door. He checked my passport and appointment and opened the door.

I entered into the “compound” with an airport security scanner and belt. I put my purse on the belt and proceeded through the scanner. The officer at the other end took out my cell phone and asked me to turn it off, took out my phone charger and ear buds, my house keys and put them in a bin for collection upon my return. He gave me a claim ticket.

He checked my passport and appointment confirmation and told me I could enter the door 20 feet ahead. I entered that door, where another guard stood and there were several glass doors with small waiting rooms ahead. I felt like I was in a prison and the surroundings were stark, clean, and sterile.

This guard told me to enter the two doors ahead and have a seat until I was called. I entered a small waiting room where the elderly man sat, another young Asian man, and a woman and her child.

From here, my process went quickly. I waited about 45 minutes for the others in front of me and there is no privacy here as the people behind the bulletproof glass bark out over speakers your name and your situation. I felt particularly embarrassed for the woman with the child who was in a real predicament and was offered no hope of a resolution and her private business was discussed over the speaker for all of us to hear.

They will email me within two or three weeks when my passport is available for pick up. They allowed me to ask questions and when I told them that I would be traveling to Italy in a little over three weeks time and that my current passport was valid for five months and Italy required six months, the only advice they offered was that I could travel at my own risk. It is the option of the admitting officer at passport control whether they will allow me entrance or not.

So, now I am waiting for the email to make the 5-hour trip back to Casablanca on a Tuesday or Thursday between two o’clock and four to pick up my passport without an appointment. Hopefully, this will happen before my trip to Italy! Fingers crossed.

Culture September 11, 2018

La Table du Marche’-Tanja Marina Bay

The restaurant La Table du Marche’ is a fabulous new restaurant located on Tanja Marina Bay. It is pricier than most places in Tangier, but the food, service, location, and atmosphere make it worth it. They have one menu whether lunch or dinner that serves something for everyone.

The restaurant opened in May with the opening of the Tanja Marina Bay facility.

The cuisine is international but there is a section for Moroccan cuisine as well. They serve fresh fish, grilled meats, pasta, and risotto. Our selections today were a tomato and mozzarella salad. It had fresh and sundried tomatoes with a pesto sauce. It was delicious.

I ordered a pasta dish with mushrooms and smoked turkey pancetta. It was a generous, rich, sultry dish that reminded me of autumn.
My husband ordered the fish of the day, which turned out to be grilled swordfish with tomato chutney and a side of mixed vegetables. We shared a bottle of white wine from Morocco, which was excellent.

This restaurant is also affiliated with the less pricey one next door, La Boutique. It makes the fresh bread that they serve in La Table with roasted garlic butter and a black olive tapenade. It is incredible.

The restaurant is located at the end of the end of the pier, which gives a nice view of the municipal beach and the Gulf of Tangier. There is one located in Marrakesh and in St. Tropez.

The décor inside is very modern with all glass windows to take in the incredible views. We went for lunch but I can’t wait to go some evening after dark to take in the beautiful Tangier skyline with all the lights flickering on the sea.