Tangier Archives - The Direction of Your Dreams

Documents February 12, 2019

Renewing the Carte de Sejour

The residency card (Carte de Sejour) that I finally obtained last year after arriving expires on March 5th. As a responsible person, I begin gathering my documents and showed up at the immigration office 90 days before the expiration only to be told that I had plenty of time. “Come back two weeks before it expires.”

In the meantime, some of the documents that I had obtained in preparing to apply 90 days in advance expired. They are only valid, according to the immigration office, for three months. So, I had to obtain an update on a couple of them.

None of the documents are difficult to obtain. I gathered my rental contract, our marriage license, three months bank statements, a report from a doctor saying I am in good health, copies of my passport, and a background check from Morocco, which I was able to do online and then pick up, along with two application forms.

Since we are traveling at the end of February, I decided to return thirty days before it expired. My husband got up very early to put my name on the list at 7:30 so that I could get one of the first numbers when they handed them out at 8:30. However, they have changed that process. You must arrive at 8:30 and take a number as you arrive. I met him there and was given number 4.

Some men called each number and at a desk in the waiting area went over why you were there and what documents you had brought with you. They determined that I needed to fill out one other form concerning my past work and hobbies and that my husband needed to sign a statement of support. All of these documents had to be “legalized” which is some form of notary service. We had already done all of the documents that we brought with us and he was able to go next door and legalize his handwritten statement.

We were then asked to wait for one of the officers. When I was called, I entered the room with my husband. My husband asked the officer if I could get the document for ten years and he told him, “We will see.” He then began looking over my documents. This was a long, slow, painful process and he seemed to just move the papers around the desk while leaving the room several different times.

My husband who had returned to the waiting area said he came outside and asked him a few questions about our change of address. Finally, the office said to me, “Give me a thousand dirham”. Apparently, I looked shocked and I was. He said, “You wanted ten years, right?” I was speechless. We went to the ATM to get the money and returned quickly and obtained a receipt and instructions to return in two weeks for the card.

I don’t even know how to describe how exciting this is! If only you could understand the ten years of document chase that, I have done in Italy and now here. Italy was by far the most difficult with the permission to stay and residency being two separate transactions. Both require some of the same documents plus others and are at different offices.

We also got married in Italy, which was a year-long document gathering process for us both. Here in Morocco, it has been more streamlined and efficient (if you can ever say that about anything related to any government transaction) but in all fairness, since I am married to a citizen, half the battle is already won. Therein lays one of our biggest reasons for moving to Morocco. Two foreigners in a different country can be a challenge.

When I hear stories of American immigrants, I can really empathize. I think the process there must be even worse than what I have experienced. Dealing with documents only in English, many only available on the computer and traveling long distances to the immigration offices are only some of the obstacles that I see. These days, I am certain it is even more difficult than ever.

In ten years, I will have to return to Casablanca to renew my passport and will have to renew my Carte de Sejour. That seems like a good long time and I’m going to enjoy every minute of it.

Culture January 12, 2019

Darija Language Update

When Darija is by far the hardest language I’ve learned. Spanish, Italian, and French are all considered romance languages. They are the modern version of languages that were originally composed of “vulgar Latin”. That means they have some commonalities.

English is a Germanic Language with some Latin influences, so there are some words that are similar to words in the romance languages. Fortunately, knowing these languages all support each other and there are common themes, some similar vocabulary and common grammar structure.

However, that is not so in Darija. First of all, it is not considered a language, but a dialect of the Arabic language. Therefore, it is not written. Classical Arabic and French make up written documents, informational signs, product information, etc in Morocco. However, the spoken language is Darija. Additionally, Darija varies somewhat in the various regions and cities in Morocco. In Tangier, Darija is a combination of local words, Spanish and French words and even some classical Arabic words.

Darija is the first language of about 70% of the Moroccan population and the rest speak a Berber language called Tamazight. Needless to say, language is one of the greatest complexities of living in Morocco. On a regular day, I speak French, Spanish, Darija, Italian, and sometimes a little English. Sometimes I speak words of each in the same sentence! It is so interesting to see how people communicate and to confirm that 90% of communication is non-verbal.

All that being said, I am making a little progress on my Darija. Through learning the language, I find that I am better able to distinguish words and phrases that I hear on the street. In order to learn, my teacher has developed a written format of Darija, which younger folks often use for texting. This has been the most helpful element for me since I am a visual learner. When I write things down, or see them written, I am better able to remember them than if I am just repeating things.

So, here are some things I’ve learned so far.

Ana smyti Karen
Ana man amerikiya.
Ana oustada.
Ana mzawja man maghribi.
Kanaskoun f Tanja
Namchi dars Darija jouj youm l simana , tnin ou joum3a hadi tleta sa3a.
Bghit bazaf.

Translation:
My name is Karen
I am American.
I am a teacher
I am married to a Moroccan man.
I live in Tangier.
I go to my Darija course two days a week on Tuesday and Friday for three hours.
I like it a lot!

I’m only 9 hours into my 20-hour course and some days I feel encouraged and some days discouraged. Both are a natural part of learning a new language.

Artists and Art November 30, 2018

The Cinema

Going to the cinema has always been one of my favorite pastimes. I remember when I was very young and RC Cola offered a deal for six bottle caps to get into the Saturday morning matinee at the Donelson Theater. My brother and I saved up, contacted our friends and set out for a morning at the movies.

When my sons were small, Sunday afternoons alone or with a friend in the dark quiet of the movie theater was just what I needed for relaxation. Even though I am an avid reader, there is something about being entertained with little to no effort that can be very appealing.

Hot summers in Boston with no air-conditioning pushed me to the cool, dark cave of the cinema to enjoy the air-conditioning and the latest in filmmaking. Whether it’s hot weather or cold, sitting in the theaters dark, usually with not many other people around, staring at the screen can really take you away.

Why don’t people go to movies anymore? I guess with the wide assortment of movies available on TV, internet, Netflix, Hulu, DVDs, etc., combined with movie screen like TV’s in peoples home makes it feel like an unnecessary effort and expense. Yet for me, it’s an entirely different experience. In the theater, dark and void of distractions, I can really let myself step into the big screen and become a part of the film. It takes over all of my senses and emotions.

In Tangier, we have the Cinemateque RIF. It’s a historic art deco theater which hosts film festivals and has an archive of films all its own. We sometimes see the latest Hollywood films, as in First Man, recently, but generally, there are foreign films of French, Spanish, and Arabic origin. The cinema also hosts a monthly series of English films on Sunday evenings, most recently Francis Ford Coppola films.

Over the years, I have enjoyed my share of Hollywood films, but have become bored with the predictability of most. I steer towards indie films and foreign ones now, which may lack the special effects of Hollywood, but have deeper, more interesting, emotionally charged topics.

The last time I went to a matinee in the United States, it cost almost $25 for the ticket, small popcorn, and a drink. That is probably another reason people don’t go anymore. The cinema here costs 50 dirhams or $5. The café inside doesn’t sell popcorn, but you can get a glass of wine, beer, or tea. If you really want popcorn you can buy it from one of the street vendors outside for 20 cents a bag, sorry no butter.

As winter approaches in Tangier, I’m looking forward to my movie nights at the theater.

Culture October 5, 2018

A Year in Tangier

It’s been a year now since we embarked on our Moroccan adventure. We got on the ferry in Genoa and landed at Tangier med 49 hours later. It was exciting, exhilarating, scary, and stressful as big changes can be.

After a year here, I am reliving those memories of our arrival and examining how I’ve adapted (or not) to the customs and culture. The call to prayer echoes through my apartment and the city five times a day marking the passing of the day. Sometimes I am soothed by it. Sometimes it is such a normal part of the background sounds that I hardly notice.

Shop owners smile and welcome me now. Usually they know what I’ve come for and are ready to help should I decide in my schoolgirl French to ask for something different.

Still, the language continues to be my biggest challenge. I’ve studied French for a year and a half and feel confident in my reading skills. These are important since menus, instructions, products, signs, and most printed materials are in French. Speaking is another matter. My pronunciation is poor, not as many people speak French in Tangier as I had thought. Sometimes I speak a little Spanish or resort to Italian for Spanish speakers because they usually understand it. This year my goal is to learn more Darija which is the Moroccan Arabic dialect spoken throughout Morocco. I know about 70 words now but can’t string a full sentence together.

The weather is a highlight of living here. Hot summer days with cool nights, sunny winters with moderate temperatures, a short rainy season, and the time in-between with perfect 75-degree temperatures and lovely breezes.

Seeing the sea every day is now a necessity. It is easy to do, as there are glimpses almost everywhere you go and every street you are on in the Medina and in Centreville. Still, none of the views is as stunning as the one from my apartment window.

Daily life is slow and lovely here. The days start late and the shops think about opening around 10:30 or 11:00. Lunches are normally at 2-3 and dinners at 9-10.

Additionally, fresh vegetables, fruits, and lovely fresh fish appear at the market every day and on Thursday and Sunday, individual farmers make their way into the city to sell their wares. The quality, size, colors, and tastes are incredible.

I’ve learned about the necessity of the hammam experience and it is a part of my routine now. The bathing and cleansing ritual serves as a physical and emotional detoxification and releases stress, anxiety, and allows deep relaxation.

There are things that I don’t like. Some areas of the city need improvements in sanitation pickup and trash removal. Sidewalks and roads can be in a state of disrepair. Also, poor people with disabilities, injuries, or mental health issues ask for money on the street. Stray cats that are unhealthy or injured are left to fend for themselves. All of these usually found in large cities throughout the world.

Overall, the year has been full of wonder, adventure, education, and pleasure. I love living in Tangier.

Above all, we’ve had many friends and family to visit. We’ve made new friends here and settled into a social network that includes meals out with friends, dinner parties, movies, day trips, beach and pool days, volunteer work, and I’ve taken on a new part-time job teaching English.

Most importantly, I can’t wait to see what the coming years in Morocco will bring.

Culture September 11, 2018

La Table du Marche’-Tanja Marina Bay

The restaurant La Table du Marche’ is a fabulous new restaurant located on Tanja Marina Bay. It is pricier than most places in Tangier, but the food, service, location, and atmosphere make it worth it. They have one menu whether lunch or dinner that serves something for everyone.

The restaurant opened in May with the opening of the Tanja Marina Bay facility.

The cuisine is international but there is a section for Moroccan cuisine as well. They serve fresh fish, grilled meats, pasta, and risotto. Our selections today were a tomato and mozzarella salad. It had fresh and sundried tomatoes with a pesto sauce. It was delicious.

I ordered a pasta dish with mushrooms and smoked turkey pancetta. It was a generous, rich, sultry dish that reminded me of autumn.
My husband ordered the fish of the day, which turned out to be grilled swordfish with tomato chutney and a side of mixed vegetables. We shared a bottle of white wine from Morocco, which was excellent.

This restaurant is also affiliated with the less pricey one next door, La Boutique. It makes the fresh bread that they serve in La Table with roasted garlic butter and a black olive tapenade. It is incredible.

The restaurant is located at the end of the end of the pier, which gives a nice view of the municipal beach and the Gulf of Tangier. There is one located in Marrakesh and in St. Tropez.

The décor inside is very modern with all glass windows to take in the incredible views. We went for lunch but I can’t wait to go some evening after dark to take in the beautiful Tangier skyline with all the lights flickering on the sea.

City Tours Hop On/Hop Off Bus August 18, 2018

A Tourist at Home

When was the last time you were a tourist in your own city? Since I moved to Tangier, I’ve been a tourist here a lot. When you move to a new place, it’s always exciting to see what all it has to offer. However, after you have lived in a place a while, things might become stagnant or you might just be busy with work, family, household chores, etc.

Whenever I visit a city, I often use the hop on, hop off buses that many companies offer to tour the city. The prices are usually relatively reasonable and you can see many things and get a lot of information in a relatively short amount of time. Then you can choose places, sites, monuments, or museums that you want to revisit.

We noticed that there is a new bus in Tangier, City Tours. It is the hop on hop off style and has two routes. One is two hours and one is one hour. They offer they tour in an audio guide in four languages: Arabic, French, Spanish, and English. It costs about $16 for both legs of the tour and the ticket is good for 48 hours.

Because we are residents, they offered us a 50% discount, so for $8, we were able to take the tour. We have been to all of the places on these tours, but there was some interesting information and it was fun to see the city and the sites from a different perspective.

I grew up in Nashville, TN and my parents still live there. Whenever I go back to visit, I go on some type of tour like Nashville Trash, Backstage at the Grand Ole Opry, or visit one of the sites such as Andrew Jackson’s home, The Hermitage.

So my advice to you is to consider being a tourist in your own city. See your city as the tourists do. You might learn something new or develop a new appreciation for where you live.

Food & Drink August 10, 2018

Sushi Box and Other Ethnic Restaurants

There are quite a number of ethnic restaurants in Tangier, although many of them are not very good. It is interesting to eat Chinese, Japanese, Thai, and Indian food in countries outside of their origin. I’ve eaten them in the United States and in Italy, but not in the original origin, so who’s to say whether they are authentic or not. I only know if I like them or if they are similar to what I have eaten in other places.

I’ve read that it is common for ethnic restaurants to adapt their food and menus to the locals. I’ve seen this happen in Italy when I ordered what should have been a spicy Chinese dish only to find it not so spicy at all. (Italians do not eat very spicy food). I also saw menus for McDonald’s (please excuse this example) change to fit Italian taste with pancetta instead of bacon and here in Morocco where they do not have bacon on the menu at all.

When you are vacationing, it is rarely important to check out ethnic restaurants because you are eager to eat food from the place that you are visiting. When you live in a place, it’s different. Sometimes you just want a taste of home or a different taste entirely.
I sorely miss Mexican food and have not found it here in Tangier. They have Chinese, Japanese, Thai, French, Spanish, Indian, and Lebanese. Still, there is a good selection. One of the best places that I’ve found so far is Sushi Box.

Sushi Box is located on rue Ibn Alhaytem Tangier, Morocco. This is a chain, so they also have locations in Casablanca and Rabat. They use the freshest fish and have a very extended menu. There are tiny jars of pickled ginger on the table along with wasabi, so you can eat all that you want.

The prices are in line with other sushi places I have eaten, although that is on the expensive side for Morocco. I think it’s worth it though. The only thing lacking is the sake, which I sorely missed. You can check out their menu at the Casablanca website by clicking here.

They also do home delivery. Yay!

Dreams August 7, 2018

Teaching English

Me, teaching English? Okay! In 2011, I received my TEFL certification from a school in Florence, Italy. It was my first year living abroad, and although retired, I thought I could make some extra money teaching English. The course was a grueling month long, but in the end, I passed with flying colors.

I taught English in Italy for about six months. I had six private students. Two were 5 years old, two were ten years old, and two were 20 years old. The pay was not great and the prep work for teaching was much more than I had bargained for. After six months, I had decided to live without the extra income.

I haven’t taught since then, and I haven’t really thought much about it. Until recently, when a woman contacted me. She had found my name and profile on Facebook on an expat forum. She inquired about whether I was interested or not, and after some consideration, I decided to pursue the opportunity.

This all started in May. There was an interview; there were forms to complete and an English proficiency test to complete. Now I am ready to face a weeklong training session on the Berlitz method of teaching. This prospect has me terrified and filled with dread.

It’s not the training I fear; it’s the 9:30 to 5:30 schedule for five days straight. Yes, spoiled as I am, I no longer wake up by an alarm clock with someplace to be early in the morning. My days are free to do as I please and full of traveling, marketing, trying out new recipes, sightseeing, lunch with friends, volunteer work, walks on the beach, trips to the pool, watching movies and reading. Hardly anything is scheduled and definitely not at 9:30 in the morning!

Okay, I know you don’t feel sorry for me, nor should you. I still am not doing this for the money, but for the sole purpose of meeting like-minded people in my new country. I had one meeting with five other teachers and felt that I could easily accomplish this goal. They were all women and were from France, Spain, Australia, New Zealand and Germany!

So, this is what will inspire me to get up at this uncivilized hour and go to this course to learn how they prefer I teach English. Wonderful, like-minded women who are far away from home for a variety of reasons and motives all together in one room for the purpose of teaching their language to others.

When that alarm clock goes off, I will definitely need to think hard about this wonderful motivation. I think I’m actually getting excited now. Wish me luck!

Beaches July 27, 2018

The Beaches of Tangier

There are no shortages of beaches around Tangier. We are having so much fun exploring them all. Interestingly enough, it didn’t really become beach weather until mid-June with the temperatures only in the low 70’s until then. Now they are hovering around the low 80’s and the water is still very brisk!

Easiest to get to, so always very crowded is the beach at Tangier Bay. This is the area where hotels abound on the strip of Mohammed V, so the folks staying there just have to cross the busy street to arrive at the beach.

A small local’s beach stands to the west at the end of the corniche called Merkala. This is a lovely small beach with mostly Moroccans. That made me feel a little less comfortable as most of the women are fully covered, even when they go into the water. I, of course, am not. This was my own self-consciousness however and not the judgment of anyone around me.

Further, down the west coast, you can find Ashakar. This beach is wide and long and seemingly goes on forever. You can certainly find a private spot here, but the waters of the Atlantic can be forceful and cold.

The stretches of undeveloped beach on the drive out to Asilah is amazing. It goes on for miles and miles. You can see cows, sheep, and goats grazing in the grasses between the road and the sand. This time of year, people stake out a small area to spend the day, but there are no services here (aka, bathrooms), so you have to make do as you see fit.

As you get closer to Asilah, more resort developments start to crop up and the beaches in Asilah are active and busy. Most all of the beaches in Morocco are public and there is no cost to visit them. This is a sharp contrast to my experience in Italy. Most beaches are private and rows upon rows of umbrellas and chairs are set out for a price.

There are disadvantages and advantages to both styles, but for now, I am enjoying finding the perfect spot to spend the rest of my summer days.

Caffe's July 22, 2018

The Cinema Rif in Tangier

The Cinema Rif originally opened in 1938. It is in the Grand Socco, just outside the walls of the medina. It is a restored art deco building. The cinema shows mainstream and indie films from America, Morocco, France and Spain. The foreign films have subtitles usually in French and/or Arabic.

Owned and managed today as Cinematheque Tanger it was restored as an arts complex. It is a hub for young people, playwrights, photographers, artists, musicians, and filmmakers.

It contains two studios, two cinemas, and a bar that serves alcohol, tea, and coffee. Outside there are some tables for tea and coffee service. No alcohol is allowed outside.

Today Cinémathèque de Tanger holds more than 130 collected movies on both argentic and digitals, 37 archive donators, more than 1,200 referenced documents, a collection of 16mm, 8mm and Super 8 amateur films in its archive.

Every month they issue a newspaper with the film schedule and special events. Since we arrived, they have had an Alfred Hitchcock festival, Casblanca anniversary, films featuring Bette Davis and now a cycle with Meryl Streep.

Movies generally cost 2.50 and you can get a card stamped for a free movie after you have been 10 times.

Casablanca was free and free popcorn was available to celebrate the 75th anniversary of the film.

Although the films are older, we are enjoying seeing them, usually for the first time. The ones that we have seen were certainly not on a big screen and it is interesting to note the changes in formatting, development, special effects and film techniques. The excitement of the Grand Socco, the history of the art deco building, the comfort of the theater and excitement of the cinema makes this a nice and inexpensive night out.